Brooke has been wanting a new bed for our master bedroom for a while, and she found one from Restoration Hardware that we both really liked. However, there was only one problem. It costs over $4,000! We both agreed that was way more than what we wanted to spend on a bed.
So I decided to build a DIY bed and use the one from Restoration Hardware as inspiration. I’ve built a built-in bunk bed before, but never a freestanding bed. So this was uncharted territory for me, but I was up for the challenge!
I documented the whole process so hopefully you’ll be able to follow along and build your own! Do keep in mind that these plans are for a king-size bed.
Materials and Tools
- Finish Nailer
- Miter Saw
- Tape Measurer
- Wood Glue
- Wood Stain
- Sand Paper
- Wood Filler
- 8 metal corner brackets with screws
- 1 1/4″ Finish Nails
- 2″ wood screws
- 4 pieces of 1″ x 12″ x 8′ oak
- 2 pieces of 1″ x 4″ x 6′ oak
- 2 pieces of 1″ x 4″ x 8′ oak
- 4 pieces of 1″ x 8″ x 8′ oak
- 8 pieces of 1″ x 2″ x 8′ oak
- 3 pieces of 1″ x 3″ x 8′ oak
- 8 pieces of 11/16″ x 8′ oak cove molding
- 1 piece of 3″ x 3″ x 1′ oak
- 4 pieces of 1″ x 3″ x 8′ pine
Step 1: Build the Footboard
I started this project by building the footboard. I cut one of the 1x12s to 78 1/2″ in length. Then I glued and nailed 1x2s all the way around the edge, making sure they were flush with the back of the 1×12.
Then I added cove moulding around the inside of the 1x2s. I cut each end of the cove moulding on a 45 degree angle so they would fit together nicely in the corners.
I applied some wood glue to the bottom of each piece of cove molding before placing them.
Tip: Cut the cove molding so that they are a snug fit. This will ensure that they fit together well in the corners.
Then I used a clamp to hold them in place while the glue dried.
Step 2: Build the Side Rails
I built the two side rails exactly the same as the footboard. The only difference is that I cut the 1x12s to 80″.
And on the back of each side rail I glued and nailed a piece of 1×2 the full length of the side rail.
Step 3: Build the Headboard
For the headboard, I started by cutting the top and bottom 1x4s. I cut the top one 78 1/2″ long with a 45 degree cut on each end. I cut the bottom one 71 1/2″ long.
Then I cut 7 pieces of 1×8 and 2 pieces of 1×12 each 44″ long. Starting in the middle of the 1x4s, I used a t-square to make sure the first 1×8 was square with the top and bottom 1x4s.
I glued and nailed all of the 1x8s as shown in the diagram. I applied a little glue to the edge of each piece and place to tightly against the previous piece.
Tip: Don’t add too much glue, because it might ooze our and get on the front of the headboard.
The last two pieces I added were the 1x12s.
I flipped the headboard over and cut two more pieces of 1×4 61″ long with a 45 degree angle on one end.
Then I nailed and glued them in place as shown in the diagram.
Next, I added two vertical pieces of 1×4 to create the division of the three panels.
Then in the same style as the footboard and side rails, I added cove moulding around the inside of each panel.
To give the headboard some thickness, I added a piece of 1×3 to the top and sides with it overlapping 3/4″ on the front. I cut the top piece 80″ long with a 45 degree angle on each end, and the side pieces 61 3/4″ long with a 45 on one end.
Next I added two pieces of 1×3 to the bottom of each leg. This added strength to where the side rails attach.
Then using some scrap 1×8, I cut two pieces to 4 1/2 x 5″. I nailed and glued one to the bottom front of each leg. This gave the side rails something to sit on.
And for the final touch of detail for the headboard, I added cove molding around the inside of the 1×3 as shown in the diagram.
Here is a closeup look at the upper right hand corner of the headboard. This will give you an idea of what the corners should look like.
Step 4: Build the Legs
This was by far the easiest part of the process. To create the legs for the foot of the bed, I cut two pieces of 3×3 5 inches long. Pretty simple!
Later in the tutorial, I’ll show you how I attached them.
Step 5: Fill Nail Holes and Sand
After I had built all of the pieces for the bed, I filled all of the holes using wood hole filler.
First, I used medium grit sandpaper and went over all of the corners to knock off any splinters and make the edges not so sharp.
Then I used fine sandpaper to go over the faces of all the pieces until the wood was smooth to the touch.
Step 6: Apply Stain
Deciding what stain to use was very difficult for us. We were torn between going with a natural look or very dark. But in the end, we stuck to our original plan of a dark bed for more contrast and chose Ebony by Minwax.
I applied three coats of stain using a cloth.
And I used a brush to get in all of the crevices and corners.
Step 7: Assemble the Bed
After the stain had dried, I carried all of the pieces up to our bedroom but I did have to get some help with the headboard because it is super heavy. Oak is a very heavy wood!
Here’s how the four main pieces of the bed fit together.
I connected each inside corner with two metal brackets, placing one near the top and one near the bottom.
I placed the two legs under each corner where the side rail and footboard intersected and set them in 1/4″ from the outside edges. Once I had them lined up properly, I drilled a hole from the top down through the slat support into the top of the leg.
Then I drilled a 2″ screw through the hole into the leg, and I hand tightened the leg until it was snug against the bottom of the side rail and footboard.
Next, I added 4 slats running across between the rails for the box springs to sit one. For these, I used a cheap pine 1×3 board. I cut each of them 77″ long and screwed them in place, spacing them out about 18″.
For additional support, I cut four 5″ pieces from the same wood and added a furniture leg pad to each one. Then I glued and nailed them to the bottom middle of each slat as you can see below.
And that’s it! I was able to build this for around $400, and I probably could have built it for less if I would have shopped around more for the wood.
I really enjoyed this project and it only took me two days, and I spent the majority of the first day rounding up material and tools.
Here’s a few more photos of the finished bed. Good luck building!