Our mudroom is one of the most utilized rooms in our house. We pass through it every time we come and go, and it’s the drop zone for shoes, backpacks, coats, and a lot of other items. To get the most functionality out of this room, I designed and built lockers to make storing these items more convenient. In this tutorial, I’m going to show you exactly how I built them.
Keep in mind that the dimensions in this tutorial are for the space I had to work with. To build your own, you’ll need to tweak the measurements to fit your space.
What is a mudroom?
A mudroom is a small room or area near the backdoor or garage where people can take off their shoes and coats before entering the main living area. The idea is to help keep dirt out of the house, and it can also be a handy place to store outdoor gear like umbrellas and hats. Mudrooms are especially common in homes with kids or pets, but they can be useful for anyone who wants a drop zone for items. Mudrooms usually have hooks, a bench, or built-in lockers. And sometimes they might even include a sink.
Before you start building these lockers, I recommend that you grab our printable plans to make the build much easier. The plans include more detailed instructions and the SketchUp 3D model!
Here’s what you’ll need:
- Finish Nailer
- Tape Measurer
- Wood Glue
- Miter Saw
- Table Saw
- Sand Paper
- 1 1/4″ Finish Nails
- 2″ Finish Nails
Since room dimensions vary, I’m only providing the types of lumber and millwork needed.
- 1×6’s stain grade wood (seating)
Everywhere I put two pieces of wood together, you can assume that I nailed and glued it. I’m telling you this here, so I won’t bore you by repeating myself in every step.
Step1: Build the Base
Any time I build built-ins, I like for the baseboard in the room to continue around the bottom of what I’m building. I think it creates a more integrated look. Our baseboard is 7 1/2″, so that played a role in determining the locker base height.
For the front of the base, I used a 1×10″. I also used 1×10″ for the ends and support pieces and cut them to the dimensions shown in the diagram above. I used my finish nailer to fasten all of the pieces.
Then using a table saw, I cut a 1×6 down to 4 3/8″ wide. I used this along with a 1×12 to make the top of the base. I nailed these two boards to the ends and supports.
Step 2: Shoe Compartments
The next step was to build the shoe compartments. I started by cutting 7 pieces of 1×12 to 15 5/8″ long.
Then I nailed the two end pieces to studs in the wall.
I connected the two ends with a piece of 1×2. Then I added each show compartment divider. I applied wood glue to the bottom of each and nailed the top to the 1×2.
Then I nailed a piece of 1×2 to the front of each divider. Refer to the dimensions in the diagram above.
Step 3: Seat
Once I had the shoe compartment built, it was time to add the seat. This might have been the easiest part of the build.
I applied wood glue to the edges of the oak and pulled them together tightly as I nailed them in place.
Step 4: Locker Dividers
Next, I added the locker dividers. I used a piece of 1×12 for each divider.
Then I nailed the two ends in place first.
I nailed some scrap wood pieces to the wall that served three purposes. They helped hold the middle two dividers in place, gave me something to nail the shiplap to, and gave me something to mount the hooks on.
To secure the bottom of the two dividers to the seat, I added some wood glue on the bottom of each piece.
Then I nailed a 2×12 to the top of the dividers.
Step 5: Vertical Shiplap
Next, I filled in the back wall of each locker section with pieces of 4″ shiplap ran vertically.
I started in the center of each section and worked my way out nailing to the scrap boards I added earlier.
Step 6: Top Shelves
I constructed each of the top shelf sections before placing them on top of the lockers.
Once I had each of the two layers built, I lifted them up and nailed them into place.
Step 7: Trim and Finishing Touches
Next, I added pieces of 1×2 to the front of the lockers to give them some additional thickness.
Then to top everything off, I added a 1×12 board and a piece of 7″ crown molding to take it all the way to the ceiling.
After I finished all of the building, I filled all of the holes and gave the lockers a good sanding. This made sure that they were nice and smooth and ready to be painted.
Later the electricians cut holes in the 1×12 above each locker section and mounted the wall sconces.
I couldn’t be happier with the way these mudroom lockers turned out. They look great and are very functional. Everybody has a place to put their shoes and hang a coat or backpack.
I hope you found this tutorial helpful if you are building your own lockers!
Shop This Look
*This page contains affiliate links. If you make a purchase through one of these links, we earn a small commission at no additional cost to you.